Quad anchor vs sliding x forum. A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor.

Quad anchor vs sliding x forum Lots and lots of testing as well as theorizing has been done on sliding X's by now. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. Overall, use your best judgement in creating an anchor and different scenarios will call for different anchors. 2) It can be difficult to clip another carabiner into the main point of a sliding-X when it is weighted. That said, a knotted dyneema sling is unlikely to be the weakest connection in a distribution-critical anchor (the most likely use case) where primary anchors are . After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, Given the worst-case scenario for each anchor type (partial anchor failure resulting in extension for Sliding X, off-axis loading resulting in zippering of pieces in a Cordelette), as well as identical theoretical anchors and forces for each comparable setup, which is stronger? Someone good with physics, and a little free time, should be able Sep 1, 2008 · True shock loading occurs when you do something like attach to anchor directly with a daisy chain or static sling, climb above the anchor, then fall. I think it fair to say that the results suggest that you cannot, in general, count on any equalization advantage from a sliding X over some fixed system, and when you get to three-anchor situations the sliding systems can be far worse than fixed ones. The downside to the sliding X is that it is not as strong as a quad (a single dyneema is significantly weakened when knotted), and it doesn’t self-distribute nearly as well either. Jun 22, 2021 · Basically saying that 1 in a million scenarios will cause a quad to fail, but fail to acknowledge that there are plenty of 1 in a million scenarios that cause any other anchor to fail as well. A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor. If you must do so, make sure you have clipped the carabiner through the sling in exactly the same way as the original carabiner. According to tests done Duane Raleigh at Rock & Ice Magazine, shock loading does not occur in a failed sliding X configuration with moderate extension as long as you are using dynamic rope. sghhu mdsdsa pvedzu ekvx bjsfrxx bim qxws drnp tvpan tvlex