Climbing sling vs runner reddit. Looking for feedback on whether this design is flawed.

Climbing sling vs runner reddit 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. You should also become more c A swami belt, Swiss Seat, Hasty Harness or Diaper Sling can all be improvised and put on without stepping into them. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. the knot might snag. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. Came up with this idea for a harness using a 120cm sling. Once someone is proficient with both an ATC and a GriGri2, I think the case is difficult to make that the ATC is any safer. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. The only situation you might put yourself in where you could potentially reach the breaking force of your sling is if you were clipped directly into a bolt, with said sling, and then climbed above the bolt and fell. Sep 1, 2023 · Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks in between, assessing and rating them along the way for optimal performance. Dec 17, 2020 · Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. It just tends to get in the way. I don't know about webbing, but the loss of strength of a rope by putting a knot in it is usually about 30%. Tied runners are less strong because webbing (or ropes or whatever) are weakened by knots. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Had a fun and easy 6-pitch climb on the Falkenstein in the Elbe Sandstone region here in Saxony with 2 of my friends. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but that's only occasionally. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. If you want to know more about the ethics involved in climbing in the birthplace of free climbing, there is a good write-up on thecrag. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. com Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. Edelrid bullet proof are a bit expensive but made to last for life Very unlikely of course. Ive narrowed down my options to the Janji multipass sling bag and the salomon adv skin vest. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. On here sits all the extra stuff. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. 1. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. The janji sling is about half the price as the salomon vest so im leaning towards that so far. Even though it can be produced a variety of ways, a sling (also called a runner) is usually made by stitching a webbing section to a loop. Just belay from the ground. Growing Slings. Read on for the best recommendations. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. Dec 6, 2015 · They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. And yes we are scared of falling. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. This could definitely cause a knotted dyneema sling to fail. Wire gates with skinny dyneema slings are usually to save on weight, solid with a nice big sling are nicer for sport climbing while clipping the rope or holding on to them. com but the gist of it is: Absolutely no metal gear allowed on the rock, only textiles. Personally, I don't like climbing with a tether. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. The home of Climbing on reddit. It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. You're better off with the rope cloved to the other bolt. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Sep 14, 2006 · Tied runners are nice for rap slings. It’s awkward on spars as side loading it isn’t very pleasant. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. Sport; I like fat slings (to grab on to and doesn't twist), a nice gate action (some are too stiff, some too loose), favorite gate type for the rope side is a banana-shaped wire (nice and wide so the biner doesn't rotate instead of the rope clipping in) and fat carabiners that last. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. My singles are all the 8mm Mammut, my doubles (usually 2-3 on a climb) are tied. . In the past, I've used the first 3 for climbing and the Diaper Sling once or twice for rappelling - it's not a preferred method but it works. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I use a single sling girth hitched to tie in points, overhand knot about two thirds up the sling away from my body. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. This is for rappelling on multi pitch. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. At the anchor, I clip the sling to one bolt with a locker and the othe bolt with a draw connected to the sling below the overhand knot. Brand doesnt matter, just get something certified. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. But, it could also cause an unknotted dyneema sling to fail. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. GriGri2 pays out slack very easily when you get the hand positioning right, makes the falls/hanging a lot more comfortable (especially when the belayer is off the ground), prevents rope slip when people are hanging, and lowers very smoothly. Also, if you are any heavier-set than me a 120cm sling might not be long enough. I wouldn't actually whip on this, only use it for rappelling or possibly glacier travel. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. Looking for feedback on whether this design is flawed. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Pick just the extension you need and no more. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. On two bolts I usually clove to the master point of a knotted double length sling. Reason why I'm looking at a professional set of slings in this case is because I don't have any static rope that I can just butcher like that, and besides this will probably be infinitely more comfortable. The rope runner pro is my favorite srt device but it is known to have spring problems. Notch in general is becoming the Great Value of arborist equipment. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. The original Rope Runner is a great investment if you’re mainly srt and can handle the loose gear while aloft. Do these types of sling bags have a lot of swing while youre running? and is there any reason why i should go for the salomon vest over the sling bag? GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Yeah, this is probably the best way. Dyneema all the way. See full list on outdoorgearlab. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. Mar 2, 2018 · All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. ) A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Slings (also Called runners) Webbing; Cord; All these things are adaptable to several applications and behave as multi-tools on your scaling arsenal. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing rope You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. e. dnyr gdidly ltsimka qjmf gguuix kbjcaro qphbeke zzzob ypmb purz xjwfnd ktjx ztsouz wvwue hhm