Sport climbing vs bouldering reddit Would only recommend the moonboard. Most gyms will say good bye to jugs past this point. I normally do full body at the gym, but I was thinking of going rock climbing along with working out at the gym there. Interestingly, the vast bulk of exercise for the climbing muscle groups is bodyweight exercises. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 8 range. Plus since there is no need to worry about falling or needing to learn to rest etc or how to clip,you can just flail away with no conciquences. V4 is going to be easier than V5 indoors. 12 where you have to climb 20 metres of sustained climbing to get to, vs a v5 boulder problem where you can pull on each time you want to give an attempt. I’d say it’s an exponential increase in difficulty as you move up. Does anyone have strong opinions about Evolv Shamans vs Evolv Phantoms? I've been using Butora Acro (wides) for the last 3-4 years and I'm looking for something with a little more sensitivity with the same level of edging power. 12 and bouldering V6-8 in the Front Range. And then 1. More technical problem, watch the feet. Will check if there are significant deviations from linearity for taller guys. Since rock climbing is associated with taller heights, outdoor locations, and a more intense sense of danger, it’s often considered the more extreme of the 2 sports. Mixed climbing is done in gloves, easier alpine trad in the winter may be done in gloves, crack climbing usually involves at least a partial glove or tape glove. I heard about his regime once it sounds exhausting. price point, that I have used BUT, only in the color black. Here's the link if you're interested. Bouldering and trad climbing is like sprinting vs running a marathon. Men have a higher potential for strength, that's just the way it is. CVS Health, Extreme Sport Tape, is the best tape vs. When he did untie the previous knot he felt. Bouldering will get you fit. Read the wiki before you ask questions Stuff you might like to check out: History of the Weekly Bouldering Advice Thread Bouldering Grade Guide Climbing Reddits /r/climbing /r Aug 29, 2023 · Sport Climbing: Sport climbing requires a more comprehensive gear setup. Just looking for general recommendations thanks. Interesting thougth about body size vs. Someone is there to check my shit and catch me after 2" of falling. Looks a bit strange that discrepancy. I strongly disagree if you are talking about outdoor bouldering. So could speed climbing on a difficult route, like they have at the Arco Rock Master duel. 13 (8a). The Black Diamond Solution is one of the most comfortable sport climbing harnesses you can buy. Three different gyms, lots of boulders for all levels (goes all the way to v13). 11 lead climber from the gym and tie them in to top rope an off-width crack rated 5. My question is why do I struggle so much when sport climbing compared to bouldering. Last but not least, climbing will always need a climbing buddy (except for auto-belays, which not every place has), bouldering can be done solo. Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. Grading the crux on sport routes is also a contentious subject, since it's very difficult to compare the crux of 5. Exactly, and maybe it's off topic but not only climbing outside gives you the best experience needed to climb well, but in my opinion it's also what about climbing is mostly about, as it comes with a kind of adventurous way of life, spending really good time in beautiful sceneries, good camaraderie, strange and interesting encounters, learning to seek simpler pleasures Of course, the best training for climbing is cimbing, but I mean as a complement. It just isnt. The biggest question is: should speed climbing be elevated to equal status as bouldering and sport climbing? You definitely can improve your sport climbing using advice from other comments (mainly sport climb more), but usually people bouldering v5 max out around 11+ or 12- on sport climbs, roughly. Toproping isn't rock climbing. just because you like to climb exclusively indoors doesn’t mean we all do Swimming, running, cycling, and gymnastics may be the closest sports to climbing and in those sports men and women are still far a part. Anecdotal but the strongest sport climbers I know just boulder in the gym then work some endurance in before the outdoor season. They do a range of funky looking colors, but for some reason, maybe they use a different adhesive - the other colors do not have as much stick as the black. From the abstract, emphasis added: Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. Read the wiki before you ask questions Stuff you might like to check out: History of the Weekly Bouldering Advice Thread Bouldering Grade Guide Climbing Reddits /r/climbing /r It ends up getting very technical the higher the grade you go, but rock climbing is already technical in the earlier grades. It is harder to maintain consistently good results in bouldering than in lead climbing. Tier 2 - Regular podium finishers: Climbers who are consistently making the event finals, and will end up with multiple podium finishes per season, many of these would be Olympians and known as one of, if not the, best climber from their nation. Wall walkers: Very, I mean very, small gym. Something I do and could work for you is wear your beginner shoes to warm up in and then switch over to your moderate or aggressive shoes when you’re climbing at your limit. According to this list most climbing activities are only supported on the 745, 945, or 955 models. In some ways, they use different skills and require different training to excel at, but there are easy and hard climbs in either style. most people i’ve met (in central tx area) climb both outdoor and indoors, and like the applicability of training indoors for outdoors. I also prefer soft shoes to stiff ones, and prefer somewhat downturned shoes. bouldering between men and women due to sport climbing not being as fixed towards the physiological differences. Keep in mind everyone has different opinion on shoes varied by price, what everyone in their community has, foot shape, climbing style, etc. With bouldering you fall away from the wall, but when climbing with a rope it just pulls you back into the wall unless it’s overhanging terrain. Bought it at a climbing/mountaineering store. Pre-clipping the second bolt is top roping. As you approach 9. If it's walking from the bus stop to the gym, not so much. I do a lot of trad and sport climbing outdoors, when it is not frozen, as well as some bouldering, and although I am not a particularly advanced or experienced climber, I have yet to climb a rock without texture. You can get the beta and technique in some reasonable number of sessions. Do your homework before asking obvious or common questions. Velcro if you want to be able to put your shoes on and take 'em off really fast, lace if you want a more customizable fit. It does give that impression, but reality is much different. Hey y'all. No Grades in titles or descriptions (Indoor bouldering related posts only) 4. ICP: Good quality setting but pricing is a bit steep for what you get. Crack climbing: Advantage people with slight fingers (who are generally shorter) Lockoffs: Advantage people with long arms (who are generally tall people) Gym climbing: Advantage people of the same height as the ones who graded the problem (generally not short women) I am 5'9" with a -2 ape index. Jan 20, 2024 · 5. I’m talking straight horizontal, 90 degree, limestone pocketed roofs. I fucking love the shoes. I definitely notice a difference when I’m climbing at my limit. I started out bouldering and have recently been getting into sport climbing. The couch will give you heart disease if TV is your only hobby. Bouldering is like climbing through a crux. 5-2 hours on Monday, just climbing to the best of my ability. Sport climbing is just outdoor gym climbing, I love the gym, I love a good sport crag but I cannot understand how some people just stop there so I guess I have no clue why they're disgusted I've started climbing about a year ago and I'm currently doing V4s pretty solid and working on V5s and Im using my feet quite a lot. I switched to a more aggressive shoe, the Scarpa Vapor Vs, after my first year of bouldering. It was a revelation. They're rubber sock like which makes them great for smearing on giant volumes, and honestly I think they work fine for smallish gym feet. If you're into long days on backcountry routes with big approaches, then being able to get to the start of the climbing without being completely trashed is advantageous. I’m looking into getting either the La Sportiva Solution or theory and wanted to know which is the best Overall Shoe for both sport climbing and bouldering It certainly isn't apples to apples but serves as a fair example of the difference in limitations. I don't know if this is a famous quote, but I have always said "it pays to be strong. As you make the climbing less adventurous (below altitude, sport climbing, indoor, etc) it becomes safer, but rock climbing is a dangerous sport. For one, using a downturned shoe will teach you steep bouldering footwork technique better than a less aggressive shoe (**Key - if that's the type of climbing you do predominantly). Nov 17, 2023 · Ten Things You Need to Know About Climbing Shoes; Our Favorite Bouldering Shoes; Honorable Mentions; Bouldering shoes come in all shapes and sizes. Anecdotal evidence for sport climbing - I wear a Fitbit while climbing and I burn about 50% more calories in the same amount of time sport climbing compared to bouldering, with the exception of when I’m really pushing it and not taking a ton of rest between climbs (or projecting something at my limit so my heart rate goes way up). - Most of the outdoor sport crushers I know (8c to 9a range) -- granted, I have way more exposure to boulderers than sport-focused people-- are rarely if ever climbing sport routes in the gym. nu set. 10 Good? There isn’t a cut off grade that if you can climb it, you’re considered a good climber. 10 is easier than 5. " Being very tall, as well as very short, is most certainly a disadvantage in competition climbing. You won't find yourself powering through moves at first. How much base cardio fitness you need for climbing depends on what climbing you want to do. LaSpo miuras for moderate to steep sport, skwamas for bouldering! LaSport is the best IMO, they fit my feet well (they are wide). Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. I gym climb 2-3/week, primarily sport climb when outside (a variety of styles but not too much overhang at this point) and occasionally boulder outside. I can throw for a huge dyno with only two pads underneath me and have no fear. 11 in your local sport climbing area. With climbing shoes there's no way I'll be able to buy online or just from recommendation. I use Instinct VS and VSR for everything, sport climbing 5. Read the wiki before you ask questions Jan 20, 2024 · 5. V7: You need exceptional climbing strength and strong footwork. Lastly, rock climbing with crampons is called dry tooling and is a very very specialized discipline only practiced for those who excels at both ice climbing and rock climbing, is needed only if you want to free climb some of the hardest granite needles in the world like Cerro Torre, Cuernos del Paine or Cerro Fitz-Roy. I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. I only have a bouldering gym accessible to me so I only boulder during the off season. First off, this is a boulder specific question because I find that (for me) timing the rest for sport climbing is much easier than bouldering. The softer rubber on the VSR makes it softer and better for smearing, while the stiffer rubber on the VS makes it amazing at edging and pulling hard with your feet. Men climbed 9c, women 9b. I used a Mutant 52L for 3 months trip to an area with long overgrown approaches, carrying a double rack + rope. Personally, I don't really notice a huge difference between lace and velcro, so I've got a pair of velcro miuras. I know that everyone thinks it's super dangerous driving a car, but the reality is there are very few deaths per driver when compared to many of the other activities we do. When bouldering indoors you should try routes above your comfort level since you won't have the strength to cheat the moves. Speed climbing is a sport. In about five minutes, they’ll be swearing off crack climbing forever and saying this is the hardest they’ve ever worked in his life. The remodeling process takes years. I've done a good amount of sport climbing that is essentially 80% awesome V0-2, then some cruxes. 120% BW max. The beginner climber can really stand in to get more quality this way. Also free chalk. These are averages as every climbing gym is different but I went to some major climbing gyms (Innsbruck). New shoes aren't comfortable like rented shoes which were broken in by 100+ of feet. Not much bouldering, mainly sport climbing, narrow and flat feet overall, second toe is barely longer than big toe I tell people that indoor climbing and outdoor climbing are two different sports. It makes sense within bouldering that there are specific problems where it works out alright for women to be given a problem that the men do, but it wouldn't work out over an entire competition that tests a I happen to live close to a bouldering area with roof climbing. If we're doing hot takes. I spent all winter bouldering (V4/5) and had a ring finger that really bothered me, but I've been only sport climbing (5. Can bouldering or some variation of climbing be logged on any lower end models? Definitely agree the Mutant line isn't the most durable for rock climbing. PB territory can sometimes feel a bit like diminishing returns, you're not really pushing your limit but it's very time consuming because you're unlikely to give up Don’t think any of them could climb V-anything, or 5. It’s getting too cold for outdoor climbing here so I will probably get indoor shoes now and outdoor shoes later. The only thing it's not good for is trad climbing because the gear loops are too small (yes even on the solution guide). Sometimes I sport climb, when the gym is empty and I have a good belayer. I own bouldering stuff (two pads); sport climbing stuff (quick draws & rope); traditional climbing gear (sets of cams, nuts, tricams, hexes); aid climbing gear (pitons, hammers, ledge, pigs, bashies, etc); alpine/ice climbing gear (ice tools, mountaineering axe, screws, snargs, crampons, deadman anchors, boots, specialized Looking for some recommendations for some stiffer shoes as starting to do more outdoor bouldering and sport climbing and finding Dragos to be too soft for me for that I also loved my Skwamas again in LV but just came to terms they are far too wide for my foot. Outdoor climbing grades (like gym grades) vary, but folks tend to ann Royal Robbins and Warren Harding and friends had some bitter fights about what is and is not rock climbing. That said, I know people who can lead climb without issues but are afraid of even getting 1 meter off the ground when bouldering, whereas I have no issues jumping off at 4m onto a mat but have some If you're talking about outdoor sport vs indoor bouldering, I think the comparison itself is the issue. Now climbing 6B/6C boulders and sometimes even almost a full 7A sport climb. It'll probably improve your sport climbing a ton! Less gear is needed to go bouldering and you don't even need a partner if that is your preference. Will be refined with additional data. That’s where the shirtless discourse comes up. I can boulder v4s pretty easy some on the 1st try and some takes a few tries. "Sport climbing is neither" is the 80s version of the same conversation. In climbing this can be something like maintain sport while improving bouldering, maintain half crimp, full crimp, pockets, with a set of max hangs or repeaters while working minimum edge. I have red pointed up to 11b but have tried into the 12's while sport climbing. I really don't understand this. I've been thinking about the LS Miura, Scarpa Vapor or the Scarpa VS. You can usually find them on sale for 25% off. My GF and I are mock leading in an effort to take the lead test indoors and hopefully do… I don't want a higher end model as I will likely scratch up the face rather quickly between wearing it at work and bouldering. 12a, my current hardest). Technique based. At the time I was climbing inconsistently due to school, but probably getting on the wall at least once a week, but rarely more often than twice. Great analysis! I think this is a wonderful reference for people who take climbing seriously, ie the 8a. Me and my friends have done some very stupid things on hi-ball boulders or some with sketchy landings. The Mutant was riddled with small holes and tears after that, but nothing too serious or worrying. I think this is an issue that doesn't really exist. When a company designs a new suite of shoes, they send pairs to us and our testers, and we climb in them, compare notes, write a review, and then, later, do a roundup of the latest and greatest releases of the year. I’ve checked my local Minimum in Oerlikon as I’d like to give bouldering a go, 26 chf for a day pass :( Because bouldering and climbing a long route are barely the same thing, just like a marathon and a 100 yd dash aren't the same thing. Comp climbing is a very artificially limited style of climbing, and very often the people who are good at comp climbing aren't much good on rock and viceversa. It might be more applicable to sport climbing than to bouldering but volume slightly below PB and dabbling in (without seriously projecting) slightly above PB is a good combination. Most balanced climbers will be able to keep max sport and bouldering (French/font) grades the same (aka 7A and 7a). V6's are usually known as the second plateau because, unless you climb on Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. The big heroes in my climbing youth were Johnny Dawes, Ben Moon & Jerry Moffatt. Climbers need a harness, climbing shoes, quickdraws, a rope, and a belay device. Nalle does HUGE amounts of training for the sport he loves. finger strength ratio. If you have a great belayer, TR is safer In bouldering you can seek danger climbing highballs or just a plain bad landing an experience created by the very nature of the stone and surroundings and that is also the case of trad-climbing, you can climb routes that are poorly protected and long run outs: all a part of the nature of climbing. Less hangboard, more wall. The issue for at least me is they want you to basically train separate things each “block” or month, then after multiple months you’re in a performance phase where you’ll feel the best. Only sport climbing, he messed up at the anchor attaching his carabiner with the figure of 8 knot to the previous knot. Maybe it could be included as a format, but I think promoting climbing to the masses as what it mostly is (lead, bouldering and speed) instead of climbing without a rope over water (which undoubtedly it is also but to a much much more niche area) would be better and promote the sport as something for athletes and sportsmen. I go over of the methods of periodization discussed in this post in the OGO series. Either way, I agree. What do you guys think? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Several climbers have spoken out about this over the last couple of years for example, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Beth Rodden, and Janja Garnbret. With the caviot of some heavily chalked handholds in the rain. I've not seen too many amazing, awesome V0-2 around that aren't slabs. By v7/12b you should already see significants changes in the shape of your fingers, so my guess is that your definition of what a v7 climber truly is, is It's all about progression, so say I've been bouldering and my endurance is low, switching to sport climbing gives me a chance to make progress again (even if it is just getting back to previous sport climbing fitness). But when on a rope which is inherently safer, Im literally shitting myself in a roof climb. I assume the Miuras are great for overhang sport and bouldering This is a great example of one of the many failures of this chart. It was some tourist climbing around my place, not experienced in outdoor. I use it 95% of the time for indoor and outdoor bouldering and sport. I only toprope 90% of the time. Rock Climbing/Bouldering as a workout? There is a rock climbing gym by my house, that has tons of walls and stuff, along with tons of exercise equipment kinda like a gym area. Gym climbing isn't rock climbing. But the model is better tuned for Sport climbing than for bouldering. I think bouldering is more injury prone for ankles and perhaps fingers. 175% for 7C+. Bouldering is the best training for sport climbing if you're a sport climber. It's not really sport climbing, it doesn't teach you anything other than how to tie a figure 8 knot and even to belay on it isn't like actual belaying for sport climbing. A lot, a lot. Sport climbing injuries will step from things like incorrect belaying or rock falls. 5. Interestingly enough, my indoors grades (bouldering) dropped a bit. For example, you can infer what I alluded to in the original post by noticing a much more limited gap in sport climbing vs. When I started climbing I got into sport climbing, but as I was progressing I got injured and looked to trad for easier stuff and adventuring. They sounded like they googled 20 climbing terms and just rolled a 20 sided die to find out which one to use at any given time. e) Lastly, how downturned should the shoe be for vertical sports climbing? 2. Those were fine, but they sucked, so I did the next reasonable step and used my student loan money to buy a brand new pair of Miuras VS ($180) (I have problems managing money). Traditionally, V0 is equivalent to 5. There is a huge problem within sport climbing of climbers being at unhealthy low weights. I've always benefitted from rest, but have found more and more that taking 5-7 days off - as often as every four weeks - is the only way I actualize any gains, regardless of whether I'm only climbing in It was some tourist climbing around my place, not experienced in outdoor. . About a min. Rocksports: Only good for the moonboard. Why is no tex the future? The climbing is technique sport has spread to the climbing community and everybody just keeps deluding themselves thinking that the reason why they cant climb some overhung 8A is technique. I’ve gone through dozens of shoes doing everything from alpine routes to V11 boulders, and would be fine with a pair of moderately broken-in Katana Velcros Based only on my own experience, sport climbing tends to be easier on my fingers. There is definitely some good in sport climbing in the gym if you need to work on clipping and lead head but if you have a solid base in that then bouldering, power endurance and then some base aerobic training should be more than enough. (the sport route circles across routes at the ceiling) For me, with climbing shoes, there's no substitute to going to a store and trying on different models and different sizes. 12c/d I think, but usually people cannot do their max difficulty boulder in the middle When I started climbing 5 months ago, I had a $5 pair of mad rock shoes I got at a yard sale. playground wall. Physical Demands Apr 29, 2024 · Unlike sport climbing, where climbers face longer, continuous routes, in bouldering the objective is to solve specific moves on a stretch of wall up to six meters high. Also, it's not like climbing is the only sport in the world where this is an issue. While they have some similarities, such as the use of climbing shoes and chalk, they have significant differences in terms of route height, equipment, techniques, and difficulty ratings. I've been bouldering for just under 3 years and are now just wanting to use chalk and alot of the places I've looked said liquid chalk is better than the others (the chalk ball and loose chalk) finally, when do I apply it, To my knowledge you apply it when you get there and when it starts to run out (disappear from your hands) you apply it again. This one is different than the Hike and Climb activities, as it's designed specifically for slow-moving vertical (or near-vertical) climbs. Started doing some trad, but that's a whole other thing. Old duffer historical rambling follows. Toe hooking sucks from factory but got them resoled recently with an added toe scum patch to make them a bit better there. 10, but this is a very old convention which almost no one follows nowadays, gym V0 are typically somewhere in the 5. 9, it may only be one short move that gives the route that grade. Fair! Yes it’s very high… I was looking at some climbing halls near Zurich today after coming back from doing a day of climbing in Joshua Tree CA. I often see: this shoe is soft and therefore very good at bouldering, sports climbing; smearing and That's the reason i quit bouldering outdoors and stick to sport. 1. Top professional climbers might benefit from cycling it off before lead climbing season to shed a tiny bit of bodyweight for long endurance climbs, but I can't imagine why someone would want to train without creatine, given the choice. What specific shoe models has these qualities? I feel like retailers and the manufacturers themselves tend to write that every shoe they make is good for everything. It's not as commiting to try some really hard boulder problems. This is based on my climbing experience over the last 10 years. I wonder if you could also control for age began climbing- if you have age in the dataset, one way would be to simply subtract climbing years from age. Compared to other climbing disciplines, I'd say bouldering is one of the best to get stronger at climbing overall. More important, sensitivity is a far better determinant of whether a shoe will teach good footwork than downturn/camber. Most of their indoor time is bouldering + off-wall training. Hi all! I have been climbing for 2. I have limited experience on rocks although I climbed in the Dolomites, Italy & Austria on different kind of rocks. 5-2 hours on Friday, just climbing to the best of my ability. I spent last summer leading outside 4x a week and occasionally bouldering when I couldn't find a partner. It is so much easier to apply, it sticks to my skin for longer and took longer to peel off my fingertips while I was climbing some pretty crimpy stuff. Obviously this subreddit is about bouldering only, not sport or trad climbing or any roped climbing. g. Bouldering will make you a much stronger climber overall. I think trad climbers all benefit from placing more gear, so climbing a shit ton of easier routes is really valuable, because it's the best way to get lots and lots of practice placing gear. Very, very few experienced climbers would chose the Miuras for overhanging sport and bouldering. It's readily available at most CVS stores, which makes it easy to get. Laura Rogora climbed some of the hardest sport routes ever climbed by a woman on rock, but her performance in comps is often lackluster, for example. The difference between bouldering and lead climbing has been shrinking during the last decade, especially since 2019. Bloc Shop definitely. Neither is pre-placed draws. that’s for you though. There's no need to belay or do much setup so you can get in more time climbing. The effect is more pronounced when maximum tension applied, so max hangs will widen the fingers faster than if you were just sport climbing for example. As someone who started climbing a bit overweight with weak hands/fingers, but with an athletic background, I would definitely say finger strength. On the flipside, most people that I know that began sport climbing end up never really making it past this Ultimately, for perspective, the people who are “better at sport than bouldering” climb like V5 and 5. Reddit's rock climbing training community. If your local trad climbing is gear-protected face climbing, sport climbing is really god training. In the gym I've started using Scarpa Veloces. Sports are competitive by nature while climbing is often said to be “you vs the rock” so it appeals to people in that aspect. " You can always build power endurance for sport climbing faster than raw strength or technique. I've recently gotten into rock climbing and was wondering if it's an effective way to get a calisthenic workout? I've always had a hard time going to the gym/doing the RR because it gets boring for me and I lose motivation to go back, but the enjoyment of rock climbing/bouldering has been enough to keep me going back to my climbing gym for physical exercise. I'm 32 5'7 145- 150 pounds. Bouldering Grades FAQ: Is Climbing a 5. The climbing is technique sport has spread to the climbing community and everybody just keeps deluding themselves thinking that the reason why they cant climb some overhung 8A is technique. Nov 11, 2024 · Choose rock climbing for a more thrilling and extreme sport. Sport climbing will always be easier to quickly project when you have perma draws or a stick clip. Boulder 9A vs 8C/C+. It's never busy here. So the factors that make a rope nicer: Thinner. Outdoor climbing involves a lot more mental strain, as well as the continuous physical stress of climbing for longer periods of time when compared to indoor bouldering where you're only taxing your body for 10-60 seconds at a time in a very I’ve been climbing for a few months now and I’m looking for a good shoe for both indoor Sport climbing and bouldering. Again, just my own experience. We all want to get stronger and better, and the physical component of training allways exists IF you want to soar higher (which for me is getting higher than 5. hang for 6C boulder. I've loved them for everything. This whole time I've been climbing with the gym rental shoes and I'm wondering if it's time to finally buy my own shoes. 5 years and am currently climbing in women's Miura Lace Ups. I will say I have a good frame for rock climbing though. Nice variety of wall angles and height, Chabanel and Hochelaga both have top outs. It's just a matter of preference. What my greater point was that, because the sport climbing final score is a product of the individual event scores, it means the number of competitors (20 in qualifying vs 7 in final) naturally influences the final standing. In basically every sport, men are just stronger than women, thus perform at a slightly higher level. Curious if people think that the technique learned/gained by climbing on horizontal roofs translates at all to steep (but not nearly as steep) sport climbing or just any other kind of climbing in general. 02 Climbing is expensive. A marathoner might practice sprints, but his training is focused on distance. Bouldering is a good power exercise, but because climbs are generally very short and explosive, you do not build a ton of endurance, sport climbing is much better for that. There are things you do outdoors that you rarely do indoors: smearing, stemming, crack technique, tiny edging. In all of the other sports you mentioned, there are very clear cut definitions of performance. Idk the difference but I used gymnastics tape for a while and thought it was fine till I bought a fat roll of climbing tape. Between V2 and V3, you can make the jump purely on upper body strength (even though that’s not advised) but once you get up into the V7-V10 range you’ll need to have excellent technique and strength to move up from V7 to V8. OK, so I had probably my worst time climbing last night. Johnny Dawes. Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. Well, bodyweight plus more. I mean, you generally can't climb slab or crack in a gym so no one is prepared for that, unless they climb outside a lot. Outdoor climbing will be on quartzite, limestone, sandstone, granite. It's like saying "if you like hip hop, why don't you like jazz?" Some people have different preferences. The “issue” I see with the rock climbing training manual isn’t that the plans don’t work, they work well if followed precisely. My first pair of climbing shoes were the Evolv Nikitas, which are super comfortable and surprisingly durable, (I've had them for years and I still wear them to top rope and lead outdoors). If it's all cracks, you gotta climb cracks. Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. I am a seasoned all-around climber. Other than XS edge vs XS grip 2 for the toe rubber, the orange VS (with XS edge) is pretty much exactly the same as the blue VSR (with XS grip 2). Yea, a v5 problem technically is the difficulty of the crux of a 5. Dec 15, 2024 · 3. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Very interesting about years of climbing, averages, BMI, gender, and progressions. 5-5. I've been climbing for about 12 years and while I've gotten much stronger in that time, my body hasn't changed all that much. I plateaued quite quickly bouldering but still progressed quite well with sport climbing which is my preferred activity outdoors. Of course, the best training for climbing is cimbing, but I mean as a complement. I don’t for a second believe all this discussion is strictly about hygiene - no other sport has had as much debate over such a small issue. I boulder to supplement my route climbing, but I find route climbing more fun (despite what the owner of a bouldering-only gym might say), roped climbing is safer so I feel more comfortable trying tricky moves, strength can be built on a hangboard more effectively than a bouldering wall, and I do far more actual climbing when I'm sport climbing Climbing will definitely make you stronger, and especially will increase muscle fiber recruitment and improve your body's ability to use muscles efficiently, just don't expect to get a beach-ready physique. For sport climbing specifically, it absolutely seems beneficial. I use the VS for thin edging, and VSR for everything else. V6s are when most people add climbing specific workouts. 10/11) for about a month now and my fingers feel totally fine. Climb a lot. As the lockdown happened, I started climbing outdoors a lot more (restrictions ended much earlier here in Quebec) and climbing in grades in sport(and bouldering) climbing. I would mainly be using them for board climbing and bouldering (both indoor and outdoor). In climbing, you can pick your risk level. Sport climbers want to push their bodies hard, absolutely minimize risk and sort of sterilize the unpredictable nature of climbing that trad climbers crave. I have seen plenty of people have very risky experiences. Are they better than my abilities? Bouldering is what most of us would call Rock Climbing, AKA climbing vertical walls, usually with ropes and carabiners and such unless you're Alex Honnold. 206 votes, 47 comments. I climbed in various countries and just can't compare grades. Now you have to transition everything to rope climbing, which happens with a lot of rope climbing and there are much more variables into the equation when talking about sport climbing. I would say outdoor bouldering is much more dangerous than outdoor sport climbing. No shoe posts (check out /r/climbingshoes) 5. I like it but the heel is just a bit loose on really intense heel hools on small edges/holds. Of course bouldering isn't directly transferable to mountaineering, but if you want to do alpine climbing, you need to be able to do trad climbing, if you want to do trad climbing, you need to do some sport climbing and finally if you want to improve at sport climbing you could try bouldering here and then. So could speed roof climbing. Crank: Good for sport climbing and top roping, don't bother with the bouldering unless it's for the kilter board. Nov 11, 2023 · To conclude, bouldering and sport climbing are two popular and exciting types of rock climbing that each offer their own set of challenges and rewards. I got my first indoor v3 after a few months, but it was at a university wall where the grading was FAR from consistent. Really cheapened what could have been amazing opportunities, and cheated us of some incredible audio moments to go along with some gripping climbing. The model that’s best for you depends on a variety of factors, including on your body type, climbing style, how hard you climb, the type of rock you climb on, how many different pairs you want to own, and how much money you want to spend. So could speed campusing. You are just weak. 2 and thinner, ropes will last just as long used as a personal rope of a climbing guide, but the weekend warrior that isn't taking as specific care of them will find that it's going to get worn and soft and fuzzy much faster. 8 in the 1980s. For real techy bouldering the benefits of extra sense/fingertip power outweighs those of gloves, as there are no gloves I'm aware of with climbing-shoe-rubber fingertips or whatnot. I saw a lot of improvement in my sport climbing, bouldering ability stayed the same or got slightly weaker in that time. While a route may go at a certain grade like 5. rock climbing is climbing rocks, not plastic. Oct 12, 2020 · General Climbing vs. The shoes definitely matter though depending on where you’re at in terms of climbing level. That being said, if your goal is "general fitness" and you feel like you are out of shape in general, I wouldn't drop traditional resistance training and focus on bouldering--your tendons will be by far your weakest link bouldering, which will preclude you from really working your muscles as People whose name brand transcends their actual sport climbing results. In rock climbing, the terrain, ascent style, and general perception of success is so broad that it can fall upon a large range of "skill" depending on what each person's idea of rock climbing performance. This is probably the wrong audience to ask this question--a climbing sub is going to "like" climbing. My $0. true. I started climbing 9 months ago started with bouldering first and gradually to top rope and now sport. Quickdraws are used to clip into pre-placed bolts, while the rope is crucial for protection and belaying. They climb harder but suffer with mental and physical health, including eating disorders and RED-S. La Sportiva Skwama (womens): My intense bouldering shoe. There's nothing new under the sun. And then I started hangboarding. 5-2 hours on Wednesday, training climbing as per Louis Parkinsons recommendations. tl;dr: highly dynamic leaping action has been part of rock climbing from the very beginning and was the characteristic style of some of the all time historical greats e. Think of grading in different environments (outdoors vs indoors, one area vs another area, different grading systems or disciplines, etc) as an inside comparison. Training for bouldering will make you look like that. Balance between the two. Not necessarily because he's the best, his ethos just seems to make sense to me. Mar 9, 2022 · Rock climbing is rock climbing, right? If you want to see something interesting, take a 5. But speed traversing could also be a sport. Strength based. So you must have a good base of climbing strength. Climbing is extremely subjective, and what one person might think of as good is another person’s warm-up climb. Generally tall and lean. Didn't change anything on my climbing, I think the best is to understand why accidents happens. msbnyfffuoguhbylgugzcyguwelflxobbmjrvsueblqztvsbseallqgngbrqkacgtxqvdnrwohfnrapeyxgg