Metolius cam The U-shaped body provides greater durability and unparalleled control during placement and retraction. That said, they are not that much less expensive than the Metolius Master Cams which scored much higher in our tests. Each Black Diamond cam covers a wider range, thanks to the double axle design, but cam for cam, the Metolius cams are lighter. Apr 24, 2019 · The best option for Metolius cams. We only do repairs we deem necessary. Aug 7, 2006 · Basierend auf den seit 20 Jahren bewährten PowerCams (4 cam unit) und TCU’S ( 3 cam unit), hat Metolius es geschafft mit der neuen Konstruktion 25 – 30% des Gewichtes einzusparen. May 15, 2018 · At 65 grams (2. 3 weeks later I received 13 near brand new looking cams with brand new slings dated '20, 1 brand new size 0 power cam from '17 stock and the original 0 PC (unslung) which is 15 years old now! Mar 31, 2011 · When the cam needed more wiggle-room on wandering pitches like Whitney-Gilman Ridge at Cannon Mountain, I just add a long draw. When compared to other brands, the weight savings can be much more. size: color: range in inches: range in millimeters : min. The name Metolius came in the early stage of the Slider development. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. See full list on outdoorgearlab. 75 through 3, its trickier to grab the right piece. When dirt attaches itself to the fully dried film, small particles of the lube will break away, carrying dirt with it. Jessa Goebel and Matt Wilder taking in the view from Two Bag Face (5. Q: Do you resling or repair cams made by companies other than Metolius? A: No, unfortunately we don’t, we can only resling or repair Metolius cams. Rating ★★★★★ (5 out of 5) If you have Metolius cams and need a resling, Metolius provides best in class cam resling and repair services. It's hard to put it into words, but quite simply Metolius cams just feel bomber when they go in, which is a good thing. Self-cleaning action reduces wear by shedding dirt. $3 for new slings which includes: Cleaning, Lube, Tuning, and new Nylon/ Dyneema Slings; $5 for trigger wires; Return shipping is $10 for UPS Ground in the USA. Metolius cam lube for smooth climbing performance Best cam lube for trad climbing Durable wax formula cam lubricant 2oz Metolius cam lube for long-lasting use Climbing gear maintenance with Metolius lube Moisture-resistant cam lubricant Essential climbing gear for all ages Protect your cams with Metolius lube Easy-to-use cam lube for climbers High-performance climbing The Ultralight Offset Master Cam shares all the same features as our Ultralight Master Cam but is a specialized design that has of two smaller lobes and two larger lobes to fit flared cracks and pin scar placements. Cams will be returned via UPS, tracking will be sent to the email provided. Using a flexible cable for the body was inevitable, but we created the TCU because we wanted a small cam that really worked. The lifelong climbers at Metolius do things their own way. That’s six ounces of savings per complete rack. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Second loop from the front placing cams front to back on the loop I start with: Metolius Ultralight Master Cams (ULMC) sizes 00, 0, and 1 all on one carabiner. 75/Metolius 5 and larger. Moved Permanently. But now they’re smooth as butter! Ultralight Power Cams are the lightest 4-cam units in the world! Direct Axle Technology allows for more placement options in shallow, narrow, or bottoming placements, and makes tricky placements easier due to better cam lobe visibility. They are really excellent, and are more versatile in the small sizes than the Power Cams, especially in tricky or funky placements. With ten sizes offered, climbers will benefit from significant weight savings when carrying a full rack of Ultralight Master Cams. Metolius Climbing . 7). I try not to fanboy for companies, but Metolius has definitely earned it. Oct 5, 2017 · The following photo shows several of the reviewed cams. Innovative spring technology gives precise, equally-tensioned trigger pull throughout the entire range, and the Kevlar trigger material is light, strong and field maintainable. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Black Diamond C4 Camalot (C4) size . 6 sizes: #00 - 4; Sold individually or as sets (#1 - 4 Free Set) or (#00 - 4) Feb 7, 2010 · For those placements a single-stem unit like the Metolius Master Cam works better. In the most commonly used sizes, one can carry 7 ULMC cams and, even with the new C4s, save 4. However, the wax-based products like Metolius lube do seem to keep the cams cleaner than veg oil based and even silicone based lubes. 3 Mastercam, showing the cam stop (on the second lobe from the right), the springs below, and the axle running through all four cam lobes. I will say that cam angle is a much more complex thing than Metolius (or any other cam manufacturer), would have you believe. I sent 14 cams (power & tcu's) dated '01-'05 back to Bend, OR for a re-sling. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the plac Aug 11, 2016 · An important caveat here is that I've been using Metolius cams (mostly in the form of TCUs) for long enough now that I'm pretty used to the color scheme- if you're coming over from Camalots for the first time, there's probably an adjustment period that requires some patience. Q: How long does it take you to repair cams? A: Cam Repairs will take around 3-4 weeks from the time we receive them at our HQ in Bend, OR. The new Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the originals. If you can get your hands on some metolius cam lube, that'd be best; otherwise silicone is fine. Jun 2, 2010 · Metolius Ultralight Powercams are the lightest cams on the market. After you’ve studied this guide, practice placing cams in a safe venue, at ground level, before you trust your life to a cam placement. Sadly, they will only service Metolius cams. 9) New River Gorge, WV - Photo: Pat Goodman A larger cam should be used. Metolius provide a HELLUVA service, for cheap. No additional racking gear, carabiners, slings, clothing, or packing peanuts. . com **Please note, we are only able to inspect and repair Metolius Cams** Metolius makes all efforts to return cams to their best condition. 6 C3-, 450′) in Arches National Park at the end of February. Please visit our Cam Repair page for instructions and FAQ. Because the 5 through 8 does have a smaller total range than C4 . When compared to other bra Love my Metolius cams, and their customer service is top notch. Aug 30, 2013 · The Master Cam has been discontinued and replaced by the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam. 0 mm) to a hand-crack sized #8 (48. 8 vs 11. Using Metolius Cams Spring loaded camming devices are complex pieces of equipment. Write the RA# on the outside of the box. Sent them into Metolius and they literally came back looking almost new. The cam lobes are nice and wide making them a decent option for softer rock types. Naming Metolius Mountain Products. 5 mm). Their newest hot item is the Ultralight Master Cam, 20% lighter than the previous iteration. Metolius Super Cam features Best blind placement climbing gear Asymmetric cam design advantages Durable U-shaped double stem Precision CNC machined climbing cams Color-coded sling for easy identification Metolius Super Cam range finder Wide lobes for increased grip Lightweight aluminum climbing equipment Trad climbing essentials for all genders Jun 19, 2017 · Value Rating: 10 Durability Rating: 8 Overall Rating: 8 Location of Test: Smith Rock State Park Product Name: Ultralight Master Cam Product Brand: Metolius Best Use: Trad climbing, alpine climbing Sizes: #00-8 The Full Review: Over the last few years I’ve taken Metolius Master Cams all over the Pacific Northwest. For the well known price. CE and UIAA certified - Made in Bend, Oregon. Cams are made with durable materials and do not require any excessive packing. Metolius designed its Ultralight Power Cam to give you bomber trad gear that doesn't weigh you down. From Metolius: “ The new Ultralight is 20% lighter. 5 - 12. These cams are 40% lighter than most cams, and their lobes use stops for extra security in cracks. The average useable range per cam is actually larger for the ULMCs (11. Der "Rangefinder" erleichtert das Plazieren. Edit-3: A user asked me to clarify how I rack both sets of cams: I use a Metolius Gear Sling with four separate loops slung on my right side. Des weitern haben Metolius Cams die "Rangefinder" Eigenschaft. PRO DEALS Apr 10, 2009 · Each cam on your rack can save your life every time you go climbing, so give them all a little bit of love with the Metolius Cam Lube. From left to right they are: Wild Country New Friend, Black Diamond C4, Totem Cam, Metolius Ultra Light Master Cam, Metolius TCU I’m one of those climbers that carries the feared “Frankin-Rack. 5 is bigger than the new 5 for example. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Aug 16, 2010 · The BD C4s took the cam market by storm and there are die hard fans all over the world, including myself, but recently I've been really appreciating the extra holding power of the Metolius cams. Nov 11, 2021 · The head of a Metolius No. Metolius Cam Lube is a patented wax formula that gives your cams ultra-smooth performance. The new shark fin tooth CAM REPAIRS. Only send your Metolius cams for repair. 20469 Brandis Ct. Cam Repair Form Page. Which was a good thing as I gave them to my son for Christmas. Aug 31, 2011 · If you want to get Metolius cams, get the Master Cams. The Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. If you carry a double set of cams, the weight savings is the same as a twelve ounce canned beverage of your choice. Nov 1, 2016 · Justin Headley wrote:Am I crazy, or does the "more round" shape of the Metolius cams allow them to fit in some places better than a C4 does?Single axle cams in general fit better into tight placements like pods due to more compact "heads". The route has a reputation for its beat-out pin scars and soft rock. Making quality rock climbing gear since 1983. Not just new slings, but Metolius cleaned them so the metal was shiny and newer looking. 5 - 71. Metolius' patented, wax formula gives your cams ultra-smooth performance, and seals out dirt and moisture. Metolius Climbing 20469 Brandis Court Bend, Oregon 97701. Instead of the classic wire design, Metolius have used what they call “soft wire” – thin kevlar cord wrapped around the axle to pull the smaller pair of cams further than the larger pair. Apr 19, 2019 · The Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. The light and compact design makes them ideal for back country adventures, or any application where traveling light is key. The Ultralight Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. Aug 20, 2013 · Cam Angle ; Having devoted space in previous articles to cam angle, I won’t go over this concept in detail here. 3oz more than the BD Ultralights and covers the same range with six cams that BD covers with 5. It goes on wet, and sets up dry. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. For lubricating your cams, we recommend Metolius Cam Lube because it is self-cleaning and waterproof after it has dried completely. I thought I'd address that. Power Cams feature an optimized cam angle for greater holding power, and wider cam faces for more grip. Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. 3 Please call our customer service line at (541) 382-7585 to request a Return Authorization Number (RA#). Jul 25, 2020 · I got some Metolius cam lube for my birthday, and I decided I would put some on my locking carabiners, and the difference is remarkable! Both the gate hinge and the screw locks on my biners have been creaking and screeching since shortly after I bought them (BD Rock Locks and Mad Rock Super Techs). Feb 14, 2013 · Another metolius cam resling testimonial. E: info@metoliusclimbing. Smith Rock is what brought the climbers together and allowed it to happen. Climbing up and down the Willamette Valley, the Columbia Gorge, Smith Rock, and Moved Permanently. Nov 6, 2018 · (and also add Metolius Powercam sizes #9 and 10) They changed the range for the same numbers so its a little confusing The old Camalot 4. Return shipping to Canada is $20 for UPS Expedited. This has the advantages of being light, strong and easily field maintainable – worth knowing if you're heading away on a long trip. A basic understanding of how cams work is critical to finding safe, reliable placements. (If your cam anatomy and engineering basics are a little rusty, check out the footnote embedded in my Wild Country Helium Friends review, for info on cam range, and give Cams 101: Glossary a read. The small cams 00-4 are probably my favorite micros. Now, the most stand-out thing that Metolius has done is put indicator colors on the outer lobes of the cams so that you know, without a doubt, what size fits in the crack you're looking at. Find a Climbing Shop; Our cam repair service is only available on Metolius cams. The Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the originals. Shop for Metolius Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Mar 16, 2016 · The Lightest Cams on the Market. 7 sizes: #2 - 8; Color-coded 13mm Monster slings and tubing Jan 16, 2009 · Metolius Climbing (www. Related Searches. The document has moved here. 7 ounces (759 grams). 8 sizes: #00 - 8 The asymmetric cam lobes give almost twice the range of conventional cams, and they are more stable than symmetric cams of the same size. How’d they do it? The same can be said of the TCU. Sep 30, 2010 · Having only used traditional design cams, we were initially a little confused by the off-center style of placement with these cams, but found that Metolius Rangefinder was really helpful and after a bit of practice it is really easy to tell if the lobes are retracted to an appropriate extent for proper placement. This chart provides a straightforward, easy to interpret size comparison, to help you compare cam models against one another in terms of sizing and May 25, 2014 · Metolius, whose cam angle was the smallest on the market made them particularly in need of improved range, submitted the Supercam. ” Because I pieced my rack together with new, used, and gifted gear, I don’t have just The Ultralight Offset Master Cam shares all the same features as our Ultralight Master Cam but is a specialized design that has of two smaller lobes and two larger lobes to fit flared cracks and pin scar placements. Jan 30, 2018 · An equivalent size run of Mastercams weighs just 1. If you're carrying a double set, the weight savings is equal to a twelve ounce canned beverage of your choice. range: Get news from Metolius Climbing in your inbox. If you want additional information, check out Blister’s Cams 101 piece. Shop climbing lube at Outdoor Gear Exchange. Jul 19, 2024 · New to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cam takes the weight off alpinists and trad climbers. Then ship it on to us at Metolius. And the smallest 3 offset ULMCs fit really well into most pin scars where I climb. The Master Cams aren't perfect, but (IMO) they are still the best small cams currently available. The lobes also have Range Finders with green-to-red dots along the sides that assist your placements. With the launch of these new cams, Metolius added a #7 and a #8 cam to the line-up, which mirrors the unit sizing found on their time-tested Ultralight Power Cams and Fat Cams. However, cams have a finite lifespan and may need to be retired. Axle Hole. Considering how long mine have held up, they are a great value. 6 sizes: #00/0 - #4/5 Color-coded The new Ultralight Master Cams consist of 10 units ranging in size from the tiny #00 (8. 5 ounces (128g) over the same range. This technology also helps you set each cam in tricky, shallow, and narrow placements with ease. We have the most advanced and versatile line of camming devices for crack climbing. So often people 'exaggerate' the camming ranges of BD cams and ignore the comparison of useable ranges. Always have, always will—and that’s why we love them. Ultralight Fat Cams feature an optimized cam angle and wider cam faces for greater holding power. Mar 25, 2018 · I love my ultralight master cams but I find myself consistently reaching for C4s for BD . It’s winter now and that means damp cold temperatures that aren’t conducive to climbing outside in a lot of places. metoliusclimbing. From the removal of the thumb loop to holes in the aluminum triggers, Metolius has pulled out all the stops to make the Mastercams as light as possible. com The new Metolius Ultralight Master Cam design 20% lighter than the original but features the same optimized cam angle and single-stem design for solid placement in tight spots. ) Apr 5, 2012 · Silicone is fine Will; so is oil based bike lube, etc. This process Apr 4, 2025 · The lightest cams in our review are the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams; the complete rack from micro cams to big hands weighs 26. Big whippers can ovalize the lobes’ axle holes, imparting extra play between lobe and axle. If you suspect this issue, compare the cam to a new one of the same size. Cam Repairs and re-slinging. According to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the original Master Cams. com) has come out with a line of flexible single-stem cams called Master Cams that have a similar design to Aliens but appear a bit beefier. Value These are among the least expensive cams on the market. I find this to be more useful as a teaching tool than in actual practice. This bottle contains two fluid ounces of Metolius' patented wax formula that gives your cams the smooth performance you need to set and clean your pieces without them sticking. 3 ounces) for size 3 (orange), the Ultralight Master Cams are some of the lightest cams tested. The Splitter 4 Cam sizes are mostly redundant with the Flex Cams, and both series have less overlap in protection ranges between sizes than Black Diamond, but not as great as Metolius. MCL keeps cams working smoothly and helps them last longer. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. One surprising thing to note is that the protection range is really large despite any obvious change in the cam head axis alignment or any other obvious Apr 19, 2021 · The Metolius Ultralight Offset Master Cams turned out to be the MVP (most valuable piece) during a solo ascent of the Tower of Babel (5. Big props to Metolius, and that's correct, (or it was then) they only resling Metolius cams. Bend, OR 97701 . 6 sizes: #00/0 - #4/5; Sold individually or as full set Jun 3, 2015 · I'm used Black Diamond's cams which have a thumb loop, which I thought I'd miss; however, the Metolius Master Cam does the trick without it. A set of ULMCs 1-8 is my go-to for a lot of alpine rock routes. Its lightweight appeal is due to the Direct Axle Technology, which places each lobe as close to one another as possible. Like other Metolius cams, the Master Cams use color-coded “range finder” marks on the heads of the outside lobes to encourage bomber placement. thqs qqhe vfxxz feaekj oqqwh hqyqa tkftq oeox ztyz nfzmp yiuhep ipoffd vdcu xbebu vyicmk