Offset nuts climbing Feel strong and confident heading up and down your next wall, crag, boulder or slab. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. Offset Stopper Set #7-11 - Black Diamond Equipment Shop for Black Diamond Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Available individually or as a set of 5. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. Kirtis wrote:I use to think offset nut were Nuts with an offset taper that allows them to protect flared & irregular cracks. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, these nuts offer superior placement versatility, ensuring a secure fit in irregular cracks and flares. Torque Nuts: DMM Torque Nut 4, 144g; DMM Torque Nut 3, 100g; DMM Torque Nut 2, 72g; DMM Torque Nut 1, 55g; TOTAL: 371 g; And the DMM Nutbuster is 54g. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze. If the crack is offset or flared an offset is likely a better fit. I think it should be their next thing to do. Hope that helps. Two sets of nuts with a removal tool between them. Up to 0. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. If weight savings are important they are a great way to shave a few ounces. Have been debating ditching the non offset nuts all together with the exception of possibly the stuff smaller than the #7 small red. Wild Country Rock Wire Nut Set - #1-5. May 9, 2024 · Its name is a give away - these climbing nuts are incredibly lightweight, making them an effortless addition to your climbing gear. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. DMM Halfnuts. In rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire that climbers use for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. My fav gear by far is black and blue totems. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally Jan 6, 2020 · If you're in the market for everyday trad climbing or for smaller sized nuts, we'd recommend the still offset DMM Peenuts as they work nearly as well in micro-fissures and pin scars but are significantly more durable. A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot. Offset Nuts Bring 1 set of regular offset nuts and 2 sets of brass micro nuts (even xtras of brass #4-6). Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the Jul 28, 2022 · Brass nut (L), Standard nut (M), Offset nut (R) This is what you probably came here to read about. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Nov 17, 2011 · These have quickly become my go-to nut for climbing on the slippery purple quartzite at Devil's Lake and the sandstone in Necedah. Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing overall strength. If you’ve stuck with my Choosing Climbing Nuts advice this far, it’s time to share my top wire-racking tip. The head's asymmetrical taper gives us solid protection in flared cracks and pin scars, while its brass-silicone blend gives a serious bite that won't pull through. For many of the longer routes, a LARGE number of slings are needed—it is common for pitches to wander. This shape is considered more secure in flares and pin scars. Offset nuts—metal wedges that taper both top to bottom and front to back—are considered mandatory in areas where flaring cracks or pinscars abound, like Joshua Tree National Park or Yosemite National Park. If you are into aid climbing or climb in pin scarred areas, Superlights' heavy taper makes them worth their price. Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. He made numerous impressive first ascents during his lifetime, including classic test pieces such as The Mangler Climbing Nuts Huge brand selection - Free delivery to UK from £75 - Buy online now! Dispatch of goods within 24 h Expert service. Lightweight aluminum design keeps weight down, and color coded heads make it easy to grab the right size when you're on the sharp end. Blue totem I find so many good places and it just bites into the rock Related Searches. Nuts are the staple of any trad or aid rack as they provide solid protection when placed correctly. Don’t dicker around. Think of micro-nuts as a last resort—you need a piece of gear and the only option is the tiniest crack where only a micro-nut fits. Oct 31, 2024 · Tiny brass climbing nuts are considered mandatory for any thinly protected route, from steep El Cap aid lines to Eldorado Canyon sketch-fests, and the DMM HB Brass Offsets are our review team's pick for the best micro nut. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee I've logged more than 200 days climbing in Squamish. 1 set of nuts/stopers 1 set of offset nuts 2 sets of cams 1 set of smaller offset cams Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. May 17, 2024 · Micro-nuts, as you might expect, are smaller nuts. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Climbing nuts, also known as wires, rocks or stoppers are thin wedges of metal that are slotted into constrictions in cracks to provide protection when climbing traditionally outdoors. 2mm 1 60m x 7. 2 through 5 and singles of 0 through #8. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. 95 How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers. The brass ones get damaged easily if you try to jerk them out, so bring a baby hammer to tap them out with your nut tool. From rock climbing offset nuts and stoppers, The Wilderness Exchange gets you geared up for climbing adventures. 2 sets of offset micro nuts, 1 set of offset normal nuts, 2 cam hooks, 1 grappel, 1 talon and a handful of rivet hangers is the special sauce to the hard spots. 1 set of climbing nuts/stoppers 1 set of offset nuts like DMM Peenuts 1 ea DMM Brass Offsets (for harder routes with thin pro) 2 sets of cams 1 set of offset cams 1 60m or 70mx 9. DMM Wallnut Stopper. See more of our top gear picks in our 2018 Climbing Gear Guide: Editors’ Choice Awards. If it is inward and upward flaring, you can use any kind of nut, but an offset might be a safer bet because it can be set in place to prevent it from moving. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Jun 29, 2021 · Compliment your standard nuts with similar sized Offset nuts which offer a different shape and place really well. Offwidth climbing is the best climbing. The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. Brass heads for optimal characteristics in marginal placements Micro protection lets you protect cracks where normal siz Jun 19, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Engineered for precision and reliability, these nuts are crafted from high-quality alloy, ensuring durability and strength in challenging conditions. Cams, nuts and slings are used at most climbing areas. 75 to #3 will give you about 4 options for every placement. The full set of DMM Alloy Offset Nuts. Asymmetrical taper gives stable placements in offset cracks Allows placement in two orientations for increas Shop for climbing micro nuts at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. We have found them perfect for protecting climbs on Grampians sandstone, in the Bluies, or anywhere where cracks are found. I looked around at my options, and they were bleak. Offset Cams. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. Jan 20, 2010 · What sets this climbing nut apart is a little more taper front to back (the most typical placement orientation) than Stoppers, Wedgies or Huevos, a useful quality in many situations. 10s, you should probably get a full double rack of . DMM Offsets are the ideal passive protection nuts for climbing in Australian conditions. Looking for the best climbing protection? From rock climbing cams to friends to offset nuts & stoppers, The Wilderness Exchange gets you geared up for climbing adventures. 3 Lockers and a belay plate. He loves teaching rock climbing classes to students, which he thankfully gets to do all the time as the Assistant Director of Recreation at St. Free shipping Australia wide on orders over $99 | Over 400,000 Trees Planted free shipping australia wide on orders over $99 Feb 25, 2015 · Hybrid or Offset Cams. Check out our great prices and latest deals! DMM HB Brass Offset Set 0-6 £108. Vector nuts feature an offset shape for placements in flared cracks. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. These cams are distinguished by the fact that two of the four cam lobes are slightly larger in size. Trango offset nuts for trad climbing Lightweight aluminum climbing nuts Best offset nuts for rock climbing Durable offset nuts for crack placements Color coded offset nuts for easy selection Offset nuts with 7kN strength rating Aluminum climbing nuts for beginners Offset nut sizes for various crack widths Trango climbing gear for outdoor adventures High-quality offset nuts there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Oct 19, 2021 · OFFSET NUTS. I am curious if Nathan feels differently though. Offset cams, nuts and hooks have worked perfectly fine for nearly every route I have climbed. What would replace the most useful clean aid tool since offset aliens? Luckily, Moses Enterprises stepped up to recreate cam hooks. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes DMM passive protection and active protection for trad climbing, and ice and winter protection. Each of these are described below. 8-10. Which one gives you greater surface area, which one is better suited for the direction of pull, which one is more likely to resist an outward pull. 95 shipping on most orders Details. The unique offset shape ensures a snug fit in challenging place One set of nuts One sets of offset nuts 14 alpine draws I have recently been considering buying a few small dragonfly’s for tiny placements. Dec 13, 2009 · If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. I’m climbing in red rock Irregular is better. Wild Country Superlight Offset Rock Set review Best lightweight offset nut set for climbers Durable aluminum offset nuts for trad climbing Color-coded rock set for easy identification Weight-saving climbing gear for advanced climbers Superlight offset nuts for flared cracks 7075 alloy construction for strength and durability Climbing gear for both men and women Optimal Cams (Black Diamond 0. And those nuts are superlight. 7mm rappel rope (optional) 10 quickdraws 20 extra carabiners 10 Dyneema or Spectra slings climbing harness Petzl Gri Gri Jan 31, 2011 · That beng said, peanuts/offset nuts dont seem all that necessary in my experience. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. I also like Rocks on a Wire in larger sizes better than Stoppers, Huevos or Wedgies because Rocks have less tendency to slide up and down the cable while being Feb 7, 2021 · When the gear is that small you want to have the most surface contact you can get. Check which types are most commonly used at your chosen climbing area before you commit to buying a full set. Purchase the DMM Offset Nuts The DMM Climbing Brass Offset Nuts are specifically designed to bite into irregular placements like flared cracks and pin scars, slotting into placements where standard aluminum nuts struggle to fit. 5mm Mammut Infinity or Maxim Equinox (BB) and one 60m x 8mm for double A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Aug 8, 2022 · If a slot is plagued by obstructions or a partial flare, a nut placed sideways (that is, broad side facing out) may wedge in the sweet spot. $69. The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts(and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre This article focus on those from reputable brands, the kinds of nuts that most climbers looking to get started on their first free climbing nut rack should look at. The smallest ones are mostly for aid climbing and you likely won’t ever use them free climbing. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. 290. Certifications: Single Pitch Instructor, Climbing Wall Instructor, Wilderness First Responder The DMM Climbing Alloy Offsets are based on the same nuts created by legendary climber Hugh Banner back in the '60s, with a renovated design that renders them much lighter while still preserving their strength. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. A micro nut is used where no other protection will fit. The DMM Brass Offsets are a crucial tool for protecting small flared cracks, they often fit perfectly into spaces nothing else will fit into. The unique offset design p Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. 7 out of 5 stars. offsets nuts are really nice to have Yosemite granite has many pin-scared cracks so a few sets of climbing nuts and offset nuts are essential. When he died and the company shut down in 2005, climbers If you’re climbing 5. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect. Sep 24, 2020 · I have the option of tripples for small sized cams as well as tricams and now I also have the bd offset nuts from small red-purple. DMM Offset Nut 9, 37g; DMM Offset Nut 8, 29g; DMM Offset Nut 7, 27g; TOTAL: 193 g. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. Borrow, scrounge, or get these cams however you can. . 95. Graham Here's the rack we at SuperTopo bring when we climb around WA Pass. They feature holes on the larger faces of the alloy head and they fit great in flared cracks. It depends on where you live. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. Top Rated. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them during the 2021 Guides Choice Award Winner The Offsets were originally designed by Hugh Banner, the climbing gear maestro who founded HB Climbing Equipment. I can’t currently justify keeping them on my rack, even while aid climbing. Olaf College. The Alloy Offset is a set of climbing nuts by DMM. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Buy trad climbing gear online from Sgùrr Shop | Affordable range of nuts, hexes and wires. Dec 13, 2009 · Superlights are among the more expensive nuts we tested. Shop great deals on active and passive protection for performance, comfort and safety. Bring 2-3 of each size for most routes. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. Shop the best selection of Trango Climbing Hardware at Backcountry. Apr 13, 2025 · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. Don't forget about our price match guarantee! Related Searches. Offset microwires perhaps, but larger placements in my experience are more forgiving. Offset Side Profile | Offset shapes slot into cracks and most placements better than a standard Rock profile. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. The Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks Set 5-10 is a full set of the uniquely lightweight and highly functional offset climbing nuts. Cams are quicker to place – great if you’re getting pumped and need to place gear quickly. Placing Offset Nuts. Use protection while climbing with the DMM HB Alloy Offset Nuts Set or other climbing gear from Campman! Fast and free shipping on orders over $50! May 26, 2022 · Why would you be concerned whether it was a regular nut or an offset nut? Far more important is the quality of the placement. Now we list most racks as requiring 1-2 sets. The Alloy Offset Nut offers you placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, due to their complex offset shape. DMM Wallnuts. Add 'em to your free climbing rack for a boost in strength in the small sizes (compared to other aluminum nuts). You’ll likely carry the grey and green offset often once you start getting familiar with them, not just when the route calls for RPs. DMM ALLOY OFFSET FEATURES: Heat-treated alloy for maximum bite; Offset profile; Size colour coded anodizing (corresponds to other DMM nuts) Gold size 7 -31g; Blue size 8 - 34g; Red size 9 - 38g; Grey size 10 - 43g; Light Blue size 11 - 55g; Recessed wires - reduces abrasion to wires; Strength- all sizes- rated to 12kN The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. com. Tenaya Offset Nuts: Precision and Reliability for Every Climb Elevate your climbing experience with Tenaya Offset Nuts, designed for climbers who demand precision and reliability. Sep 12, 2014 · The least useful BallNutz sizes were the largest, which could be bested by cams in nearly every situation, and the placement of smaller sizes needs pretty specific circumstances. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. Superlights are an extremely versatile nut, fitting many types of cracks and rock types well. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. Micro Nuts. DMM Offset nuts are used more often than normal nuts in most of the areas I climb. Which makes the whole passive protection part of the Trad Rack™ 1. 10/10 would whip. The unique offset design provides superior place An extensive set of nuts, rocks, and hexes is imperative if you’re looking to improve your climbing ability beyond the basics—any pro climber will tell you that. It is fortunate that I didn't know this, because it isn't true. I have never encountered a route where that bit me in the rear, offset nuts seem to fit everywhere a regular nut would, and then some. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for trad climbing Micro nuts for secure placements in flared cracks Asymmetrical tapered heads for irregular crack fitting Thicker wires for increased strength and durability Color-coded sizes for easy identification Lightweight design for minimal rack weight Brass and silicone construction for optimal performance Versatile placement range for various Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. It is worth considering how easy the carabiner loaded with nuts will be to hold and manage with one hand. Both alloys are softer metals than the more common aluminum. And I really love them nuts. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. The document has moved here. Pins were usually pounded in with that same degree of upward tilt, so the scars give placements that result in the optimum pull direction for your offset nuts. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. They feature the same construction that made Black Diamond's original nuts so popular, except the new offset shape eases placements and cleaning out of irregular fissures, pin scars, and other spots that standard shapes would get stuck in. Moved Permanently. DMM HB Alloy Offsets Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. The asymmetrical design increases the range of cracks that can be used for protection whilst trad climbing. Black Diamond Stoppers. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. Jan 5, 2018 · I don't think you need regular and offset nuts. Oct 1, 2001 · The Wild Country Rock is the original nut for trad climbing with a few tweaks to accommodate the modern climber. 5-3 C4 cam size. Like their aluminum counterparts, they are the most updated version of a tried and true classic. - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Buy now at Bananafingers and enjoy free shipping on purchases over £60. They aren’t quite as strong as standard nuts, but they’re certainly strong enough to hold some if not most climbing falls. The Vector nut set comes in 5 different sizes and are colour coded for easy recognition of size when on the sharp end. Find the best climbing nuts from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Wild Country. micro nuts, offset nuts, brass nuts, cams and more. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. Apr 23, 2020 · I have both peenuts and DMM brass offsets. The DMM ones are superb. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. We were initially skeptical that these lightweight climbing cams wouldn't hold up as well as their predecessors, but after a couple of years of use at this point, they've held many falls, been up quite a few large walls, and are in just as good a shape as when we bought them. $129. They are amazing in eldo and great for Yosemite/toulomne. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. Jun 24, 2013 · Offset cams In the last book, offset cams were "recommended" in the racks. FREE delivery Jan 30 These durable climbing nuts are very similar to other popular aluminum offsets available, though the red offset is a key size to complete the entire range of sizes between the largest brass offset and the smallest aluminum offsets: Rating Categories: CAMP USA Pro Nut: DMM Alloy Offset: Metolius Ultralight DMM Peenut: Black Diamond Offset Apr 8, 2011 · Climbing Gear Nuts: 1 set DMM Offset Nuts or ABC Huevos (BB) 1 set DMM Peenuts 1 set DMM Brass Offsets (optional) Cams: 1-2 sets Metolius Master Cams (#00-4) 1 set Metolius Offset Master Cams (optional) (#00-4) 2 sets Black Diamond Camalot C4s to (#0. Versatile crack protection Offset nuts are designed to fit in a wider variety of crack placements than traditional chocks or small cams. Offering something just a little bit different, the Superlight Offset Rocks are a breath of fresh air and per size, by far the lightest passive climbing protection in the world. Hugh was a real character and an extremely talented climber. It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. Sustainability & Recyclability. Hexes, tricams, ball nuts and big bros could be either essential or useless depending on the area. May 30, 2024 · As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. For a hard nail-up, you may need 4-5 sets of cams, 50+ pitons, 100+ copperheads, a bolt kit and plenty of other obscure pieces of ironmongery. The breaking strength is significantly higher in comparable sizes, so they're much more confidence-inspiring for free climbing. $54. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a serious runout. $12. A double set of totems (exclude orange), aliens, offset aliens and C4s #0. These nuts are crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring a secure fit in irregular cracks and flares. This versatility offers users the ability to handle various climbing scenarios, whether at the gym or rockfaces. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Black Diamond Wired Stopper Set. Feb 2, 2024 · Hollow, Curved Nuts | Modern trad climbing gear boasting a lighter construction and an offset shape for better placements. Apr 13, 2018 · Finally, the Offset Stopper Set contains every single Offset Stopper that Black Diamond makes. Hollowed Out | Superlight weight rids excess materials without inhibiting overall durability or strength. 95 (0) 0 reviews. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Add HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 to Compare . I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. 4. DMM Alloy Offset Nut Elevate your climbing experience with the DMM Alloy Offset Nut, a must-have for any serious climber. Designed for precision placements in narrow cracks and flared rock formations, these nuts offer unparalleled security and versatility. Sep 30, 2011 · The climbing didn’t look too bad, but I was on sandstone, and tend to be cautious when I know a foothold could snap without warning. set of nuts. If you climb in an area with pin scars, or potentially just irregular conglomerate rock, or just with cracks that flare outward, having a set of hybrid or “offset” cams can be a lifesaver, literally. Offset Nuts: Rather than curved surfaces, these feature a wedge with a top-to-bottom taper and a front-to-back taper. If the price difference doesn't bother you, go for the brass. Generally, a triple set of cams to #3 Camalot and a double set of offset nuts will be a sufficient rack for many clean aid routes. Unfortunately, there is no one perfect trad rack to take with you every time. Offset (1) Offset (Showing 1 Item in) 0 (1) Wiregate Nut Tool. They are awesome for pin scars and the straight-sided taper makes it easy to judge placement quality. Marking nuts. Yes, you can get up most walls without them; but offset cams are usually the most bomber clean placement in a pin scar. Shop great deals on passive climbing protection for performance, comfort and safety. It’s thinner, lighter, and easier to place and clean. Apr 4, 2025 · The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are everything we love about the original Camalot C4s with a weight reduction of 25%. Totem cams are also great for flaring cracks there. 95 $ 69. When a climbing cam is used, it is mostly in the thin to hand size (we'll warn you when bigger gear is needed in the guidebook!). Our climbing protection is the trusted industry standard and we're always improving performance. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. They are the same nuts created by legendary climber Hugh Banner back in the '60s, with a renovated design that renders them much lighter while still preserving their strength. Smaller than a standard nut, it's used in thin cracks and old piton scars. Check to the SuperTopo guidebook before climbing each route to see specifically what you need. But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. 50 - $13. Trango Offset Nuts 5 Pack. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Small but mighty. Add HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 to Compare . Except it still retains the original ground-breaking geometry that separated the Rock from all other nuts. The Offset Micro uses a copper-iron mix with similar overall characteristics to brass. HB Brass Offset Nut. For example, in some places offset nuts and tricams are invaluable, and other places they're specialty pieces. What is important is to get to know your climbing area through trial and error, getting beta through other climbers, and then choosing gear appropriately. Wild Country Superlight Rocks. Some climbing areas, such as Yosemite, are well known to have cracks that readily accept offset cams. This is just to give you a general idea of what to bring. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the only thing that would fit; they didn't feel great climbing above it, and when fallen on you are gonna have a hard time removing it. Those nuts are: Wild Country Rocks. There are usually more options for placing cams than nuts, so it’s better to place nuts when you can and save the cams for later. Jan 21, 2022 · Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. MICRO NUTS Jan 7, 2019 · A relative newcomer to the offset micro nut market, the Black Diamond Offset Micro offers some new tweaks on the older classic designs. Also a set of offset nuts including RPs (DMM brass nuts). I am a huge fan of small wires, and always carry both IMPs and WC Micro Rocks, as well as three of each size 1-5 (dmm wallnuts, rock empire nuts, and the brilliant but Ideal for protecting irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot, The DMM Offset Nuts boast a robust 12kN strength rating and are colour coded for ease of selection. I went full offset a while ago, and have never looked back. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Then I noticed a small crack in the face out right. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. 00 Jun 15, 2012 · Obviously anodising the nut looks prettier but this is hardly the point of climbing gear! This rather personal gripe aside I’d recommend a set of offsets to any serious trad climber looking to compliment their main set of. Related Searches. I didn't know that nuts aren't meant to be offset – that most wired nuts presume that cracks are the same width at the back of the placement as at the front. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Jan 17, 2010 · When Leeper stopped production of cam hooks a few years ago, the aid climbing community was terrified. Add to that some hex’s which are great for protecting parallel cracks and you are really starting to get a great collection of passive protection (gear that you place and then remove as your second climbs past). Based on the famed Hugh Banner Offset stoppers, these DMM Alloy Offsets offer versatile placement opportunities for flaring cracks and pin scars. Wild Country Pro Key with Leash - Lightweight Rock Climbing Nut Tool. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. I honestly find a placement for my set of offsets more often than normal nuts Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Aug 27, 2017 · I think offsets are great. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them during the DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3 Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. Black Diamond has long manufactured mainstays in the world of climbing protection, and the Offset Stopper is no different. Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. Skip to main content Skip to main menu Skip to footer $6. His favorite piece of gear is his offset nuts. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Smaller crabs are also harder to manage if wearing gloves. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. Simple, yet incredibly effective, they combine the proven curve of Rocks with a side taper that makes them perfect for offset cracks. Add 'em to your aid climbing rack to slot into Lost Arrow piton scars - faster and rock friendly! 1-3 sets absolutely necessary on most El Cap routes. I definitely place them more often than standard nuts. Tapered or “offset” nuts are great for pin scars and flares, but don’t overlook opportunities to place them “backward,” with the wide side deeper in the crack. Individually hot forged, each stopper has an offset contact area that allows for easy placements in non-parallel cracks. The new Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts have an asymmetric taper for greater stability in flaring placements. Hmm, that might be perfect for one of these new Black Diamond Offset Nuts I was carrying … Jan 12, 2018 · Though standard nuts (like the DMM Wallnuts that I climb with) usually get the job done, I don't think I truly felt a bomber nut placement until I started climbing with DMM Alloy Offset nuts. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. Ideal for both trad and aid climbing, DMM Offsets seat securely in places where regular nuts and DMM Allo Offset Nut Set Elevate your climbing experience with the DMM Allo Offset Nut Set, designed for precision and reliability on challenging routes. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season Related Searches. 5-4) Ropes: 1 60m x 9. Tailor your rack to suit each climb. Enhance your gear with DMM Brass Offsets to handle every trad climbing adventure. $15 per Stopper or $75 for a full set (#7–11), blackdiamondequipment. Nuts are much lighter and cheaper so it’s easy to carry a lot of them. But like offset cams, they take a bit of practice to place. DMM Brass Offset Nut Elevate your climbing experience with the DMM Brass Offset Nut, a must-have for any serious climber. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Most trad climbers will build a rack with regular (non-offset) cams and then add offset cams if the places they climb require them. Offset nuts are undoubtedly superior in most cases. com, where you'll find premium outdoor gear and clothing and experts to guide you through selection Hollow, Curved Nuts | Modern trad climbing gear boasting a lighter construction and an offset shape for better placements. 3 Items Sort By Most Popular Product Name Price Newest first Set Descending Direction A cunning plan! Superlight and secure, Superlite Offset Rocks are by far the lightest passive protection per size in the world. Climbing on Gimmer yesterday, on one long pitch I got to the belay stance, placed three offsets for the anchor, then as my mate was coming up noticed that every single nut he was taking out was also an offset. Read more Helpful Apr 11, 2018 · They effectively halved the number of mid-range nuts I needed on trad and mixed pitches. This set comes with ten different sized climbing nuts which allow for a wide range of applications. The design behind DMM's offset nuts was invented by Hugh Banner back when HB Wales still existed. Positions: Guide. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. 046 g. 75, I often have a double rack with half totems and half z4s Trango Offset Nuts and other great passive protection for trad, alpine, multi-pitch, and big wall climbing at BackcountryGear. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. ppbvqgbvyptldlviyiptmciukkgyunnstxwugshfdhynpkelhxfnbuclssveescjuzoymjcgtrzp